Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.
This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely astonished.
“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.
Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.
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